How to choose the right Altberg boot for you: lasts, widths, sizes and why the AForme matters

If you’re considering Altberg boots, you’re already looking at strong, traditionally made British footwear built for purpose: hiking, military, police duty, country life or everyday hardy wear. Altberg’s reputation rests on solid manufacturing (hand-lasting, resoling options, and long-lived construction processing passed down from generation to generation), and one of the features that sets them apart is the range of lasts and fittings they offer - including the rather distinctive AForme last. This guide explains what those terms mean, why they matter, and how to choose the right rand/size/width for your feet.

Before we begin here, it's important to mention that Altberg and ourselves here at John Bull Clothing always recommends going up 1/2 size to your normal shoe/boot fitting. Not only is this imperative to allow for thicker socks being worn in colder months, but Altberg's lasts are made that bit slimmer than most others

Quick orientation: lasts, rands, widths — what are they and why do they matter?

The last is the three-dimensional mould (often made from wood) a shoemaker uses to shape the upper and determine the shoe’s geometry: toe shape, instep height, heel cup, and overall volume. Different lasts are created for different foot shapes and activities - a slim dress last will feel very different from a wide, deep mountain-boot last. The last is the blueprint for how a finished boot will sit on your foot.

The rand is the protective band around the lower part of a boot’s upper (often rubber or leather) - common on heavier walking and motorcycle boots. It protects the leather, improves abrasion resistance, and often affects how the boot handles solvent/water. Rands can be higher (covering more of the lower upper) or lower; they’re part of the boot’s architecture and can interact with fit (particularly around the toe and forefoot).

Widths/fittings: Altberg offers multiple fitting options - typically several graded widths/volumes (Medium, Narrow, Wide, GFit, AForme, etc.) — to match different foot shapes. These aren’t just “wider or narrower” in a single plane; they change heel snugness, forefoot volume, toe-box shape and, in Altberg’s case, asymmetry to suit real feet. Choosing the correct last and fitting is often the single most important factor for comfort and long-term foot health

Why Altberg and traditional British bootmakers offer many fittings

Two reasons combine: anatomical variation and functional requirements

1. People’s feet vary a lot. Real feet come in many profiles: narrow but deep, wide and shallow, high-arched or flat, long toes or short toes. Ready-to-wear shoes must balance fit for many feet — offering several lasts/fittings reduces the number of customers who end up with poorly fitting footwear. Altberg explicitly developed the AForme to serve an “asymmetric” foot profile that their standard lasts didn’t suit.
   
2. Different uses ask for different geometry. A running/tabbing boot needs a different last to a country-boot or a heavy-duty military boot. Heel hold, forefoot volume and toe-spring (the “roll” of the toe) all influence performance, stability and blister risk. British boot-making tradition — with Goodyear-welting, resoling, and bespoke practices — values precise fit and repairability, so makers invested in multiple lasts and offered factory fitting services to match specific needs. The tradition of multiple lasts also follows from the long history of making footwear to measure or within narrow tolerances in the UK industry

Altberg’s fittings: what they mean in practice

• AForme (Active) last — an asymmetric last inspired by running-shoe geometry: narrower heel and waist for secure rearfoot hold, wider forefoot and slightly above medium volume, increased toe “roll” (rocker), and reduced sideways pressure on the big toe. It was developed specifically for “asymmetric” foot shapes and was the result of bootmaker-led research and old technical last-making manuals. This makes it excellent for people who need more room across the forefoot while still wanting a secure heel.
  
• Medium/Wide Widths last — these are balanced lasts intended to fit a “typical” medium-width foot. They generally have a standard forefoot volume and heel shape; Altberg recommends slightly upsizing for medium/wide boots to allow for thicker socks. If your feet are genuinely medium in width and not shallow or especially bony, this is often a safe default.
  
• GFit/High-volume lasts — wider base, more forefoot volume, for wide feet or for folks who want extra room for thick socks or orthotics. Good for very broad or high-volume feet
  
• SFit - This is a similar fit to the AForme last as it shares the asymmetrical foot-shape, but is more a shoe fitting so thinner socks are to be worn with this fit

AForme vs Standard Medium: advantages and disadvantages

Below is a practical comparison so you can decide which is more likely to suit your feet and activities.

AForme Fitting — Advantages

• Better for asymmetric/bony forefeet. The AForme was created to reduce sideways pressure on an often troublesome large toe area, so if you’ve had pinching or bunion-like pressure in other boots, AForme can help
  
• Secure heel hold with roomy forefoot. The narrower heel/waist keeps the rearfoot locked in while the forefoot has more space — great for walking, long treks and technical terrain because the foot won’t slide forward as easily.
  
• Rockered toe/roll helps propulsion. Increased toe lift (rocker) aids walking efficiency and can reduce toe jamming on steep climbs/descents. Good for hillwalking and long distance use.
  

AForme Fitting — Disadvantages

• Not ideal for narrow or deep heels. If your foot is uniformly narrow (very narrow heel plus narrow forefoot), AForme’s extra forefoot volume may feel sloppy unless you take measures like insoles or tighter lacing.
  
• May require size adjustment. Because of higher volume, you might need a half-size down or different sock strategy compared to medium lasts; Altberg’s general advice is to go up half a size for medium/wide boots — but AForme can behave differently, so try both sizes if possible.
  

Standard Medium Fitting — Advantages

• Predictable, classic fit. If your feet are a “medium” archetype (not especially wide, not especially narrow), medium lasts usually fit without significant fiddling. Good for many users and general-purpose boots.
  
• Easier to pair with after-market footbeds. Medium lasts are often deeper in the instep and take standard insoles more predictably.
  

Standard Medium Fitting — Disadvantages

• May pinch the forefoot for wide or boney feet. If you have a wide forefoot or a shallow, bony foot, a medium last can give pressure across the toes or squeeze the big toe. That’s one reason Altberg created AForme.
  

Practical decision flow: which last/fitting should you try?

1. Profile your foot briefly: are you narrow, medium, wide? Is your forefoot bony/shallow? Do you need extra room for thick socks or orthotics? If you’re unsure, measure foot width at the ball (but remember this is only one dimension — last shape matters more).
   
2. If you have any toe pressure or bunion history: start with AForme or try one AForme and one Medium for size comparison. AForme’s asymmetry and wider forefoot are specifically intended to reduce big-toe pressure.
   
3. If you’re broadly medium and wear thinner footwear socks: a Medium last is often fine; for medium/wide boots Altberg suggests increasing size by half to accommodate thicker socks. 
   
4. If you’re very wide or need orthotics: look at GFit/high-volume options. These last shapes give room for pads and are built for volume.
   

5. When in doubt — try on at the factory or a reputable stockist. Altberg emphasises factory fitting for customers with previous fitting problems and offers made-to-measure services if needed. Fitters can advise on spacers, different insoles, or slight size changes.

Sizing tips specific to Altberg

• Socks and use-case matter. Hiking with thick Merino socks needs more volume than walking with thin liners. Altberg’s advice: for medium/wide fittings, go up half a size to allow thicker socks. For narrow feet stick to shoe size.
  
• Try boots on later in the day. Feet swell with activity — this is general footwear wisdom and helps avoid buying too-tight boots. (Altberg’s fitting service follows similar practical rules in the factory.)
  
• Remember resoling and customisation options. Because Altberg builds re-solable, traditional constructions, investing time to find the right last pays off long-term: a correctly fitted boot that can be resoled will outlast many cheaper alternatives

Altberg boots in the military/military tabbing/combat role

Boot Model	Last / Fitting Used	Key Features	Better for Running / Tabbing / High Activity or for Base / Less Intense Use
Tabbing Boot MK3	AForme ‒ slightly wide forefoot, narrow heel; running-shoe-derived last.	Lightweight military tabbing-boot; soft supple leather; mobility & shock absorption, good torsional resistance; built for high activity use.	Better for running / tabbing, when you need to move fast. Heel hold is improved, forefoot room helps when bounding, and it reduces pressure on the large toe. Less ideal if you want maximum protection or rigidity.
Military Ops Boot	AForme ‒ slightly wide forefoot, narrow heel; running-shoe-derived last.	Next-gen combat boot, built for improved mobility, better ankle support, flex at instep, etc. Heavier materials but designed for combat/tabbing duty.	It leans more to high-activity / tactical use (running, moving on uneven terrain) rather than base duties. But it is heavier than a true “running tab” boot, so there’s a trade-off.
Sneeker Microlite	Medium / Wide fittings stock; extra widths available on special order.	High leg lightweight, unlined leg; good for selection, training, tabbing, etc.; soft supple upper; decent torsional resistance.	Quite good for running / active use when you don’t need extreme protection or waterproofing. Less ideal for heavy loads, rough terrain, or long hours in wet conditions unless you pick a waterproof version. The Medium/Wide fitting gives more forefoot comfort for people whose feet are “traditional” width or a bit wide.

Take a look at the latest Blog guide we wrote on which Army Boot is best for you

Altberg boots in policing / police duty / public-order roles

Boot Model	Last / Fitting	Key Features	Better for Running / Response / High Activity or for Base / Static / General Duty
Blueline Boots	AForme last. Snug fitting heel & waist; higher toe lift.	Police spec waterproof boot; full in-sock lining; designed for frontline, tactical police work, search teams. Less bulky than heavy safety boots but more protective + waterproof.	More suited to active duties: patrols, pursuit, moving quickly, bad weather. The AForme last helps with comfort when on your feet, moving, perhaps running / climbing fences etc. Less ideal if your duty is mostly stationary or in office; weight and rigidity may become noticeable.
Sneeker Elite (police, ladies)	AForme / AFL fitting (ladies) ‒ again the running shape last.	Ultra lightweight police boot; soft leather; good for vehicle-in/out, urban duties. Less rugged than full safety toe, etc.	Very good for base work, patrols, mixed urban activity; also okay for bursts of running. Probably the best compromise if you need light weight but still enough durability.
Peacekeeper P1 / Peacekeeper P1 Aqua	Medium fittings; Other widths available as special order	These are more “traditional” police boots: More rigid uppers, safety features, heavier. Good water repellence (or waterproof in Aqua versions), good for search teams, rural patrolling, static posts. More weight, often stiffer.	Better suited to base / office / patrol / less running; excellent for hours on feet, protection in hazardous environments, etc. Running / sprinting in them is possible but more taxing; less nimble.

Take a look at the latest Blog guide we wrote on which Police Boot is best for you

Summary: Which boots for which purpose

From the above breakdown, here’s a more compact guide to what to go for depending on your duty.

Duty / Use Case	Best Boot Choices (among Altberg)	What to prioritize in last / fitting / features
High mileage / running / rapid movement / tabbing	Tabbing Boot SF-MK3 (AForme), Military Ops (AForme), Sneeker Microlite (Medium/Wide) if you need lighter weight. Also Blueline or Sneeker Elite if in police/spec ops.	Priority: running-derived last (narrow heel, rocker toe, good flex midsole), lighter weight, good breathability, minimal weight in ankle/leg. AForme helps especially if you have wider forefoot but want heel stability.
Mixed duties (on/off vehicle, patrol, some chase but many static periods)	Sneeker Microlite, Blueline, Sneeker Elite – depending on how wet your environment is. If more protection/safety required, possibly Peacekeeper variants.	Moderate weight, decent waterproofing if needed, comfortable last (if AForme and your foot matches, or Medium/Wide if standard foot). Good ankle support but not super stiff.
Mostly base / static / office / short patrols	Peacekeeper P1 / P1 Aqua), Peacekeeper P3 Original. If appearance, certification, safety features matter (e.g., steel toe, safety sole), these are more suited. Also good if you prefer traditional fit (Medium/Wide) and don’t run often.	Prioritise protection, safety certifications, durability, water resistance, less concern about weight or speed. More rigid last ok if not doing big dynamic movement.

Advice when choosing

• Always try your new boots on with the socks you’ll actually wear (thick/tabbing socks vs lighter ones) and with any footbeds/orthotics. A boot that’s perfect lengthwise but tight in the forefoot may become painful after hours.
  
• If doing lots of running / dynamic movement, consider AForme models, even if your feet are only moderately wide. The narrower heel + rocker helps energy return and reduces fatigue.
  
• If you get safety boots (steel toe etc.), expect weight, less flexibility and possibly worse breathability. Recognise that these trade off with protection.
  
• Water resistance / waterproofing matters depending on environment. For wet terrain or duty in rain, go for Aqua / Sympatex or similarly lined boots; but know they often trade off breathability, weight.
  
• Break-in matters: expect AForme boots to soften in the forefoot, but heel areas and toe boxes can be stiff initially. Be patient; leather needs work

   

Finally, always try your new boots on inside - Walk around the house, even wear for a couple of hours inside to ensure they are the right size for your feet and they don't hurt your toes. If you're unsure and feel you require another size, then we're here to help and you can exchange them no problem at all with us here - just kindly follow the guide on How to Return for an Exchange